Zenitech products are organized
into a system to focus on four specific segments of Personal
Care: Hair, Sun, Color and Skin.
The purpose of
creating the ZeniCare System is to provide the formulator with the
widest range of natural, full-performance polymers, products developed
from a series of compounds that vary in solubility, molecular weight,
charge and structure.
WETTING AND
DISPERSION
In color
cosmetics, pigments and fillers represent an additional phase that
influences the integrity and performance of the final cosmetic.
Wetting and dispersion are necessary steps in the manufacture of all
pigmented products. Wetting is the spreading of a liquid over the
surface of a solid, displacing air, and is influenced by the physical
properties of both solid and liquid. Once particles are wet,
dispersion can begin. Dispersion is the reduction of pigment and
filler agglomerates, and their homogenous distribution throughout a
vehicle by mechanical means. As supplied, most pigments are highly
agglomerated, requiring some type of high shear agitation to become
adequately dispersed.
A simple
method to compare wetting efficiency of liquids of similar viscosity
is to measure viscosity of slurries made from the liquids of interest.
The lower the viscosity of a pigment slurry in similar viscosity oils,
the better the wetting.
Comparison of
Pigment Wetting Capability via Suspension Viscosity
(Oils at 35% mica
suspensions)
|
light oils |
neat viscosity |
mica suspension
viscosity |
conclusion |
|
Isopropyl
Myristate |
5.7 cps |
21,500 cps |
IPM is a
good solvent but a poor wetter of inorganic pigment
|
|
Isostearyl
neopentanoate
|
14.2 cps |
600 cps |
good
wetting
|
|
Ethyl
hexyl palmitate |
9.0 cps |
2,500 cps |
fair to
good wetting
|
|
Cetearyl
ethyl hexanoate |
10.1 cps |
3,300 cps |
poor
wetting |
Castor Oil vs.
Zenigloss (20% mica slurry)
|
oil |
neat
viscosity |
mica
suspension viscosity |
conclusion |
|
Castor Oil |
780 cps |
3,760 cps |
Zenigloss
wets inorganic
|
|
Zenigloss |
1,360 cps |
3,600 cps |
pigments
better than Castor Oil |
ZeniCare
Polymers for Color
|
• More viscous than oils
• Excellent
for pigment wetting and dispersion
• Smoother
application
• Aid
adhesion and plasticise other waxes
• Gloss
remains as long as the color
|
• No tendency
to feather, run or bleed
• Glossy yet
creamy solid
• Provide good
cushion
• Improve
playtime |
|
