Zenigloss and Zenigloss S each have a surprising property relating to color cosmetics: 

Zenigloss appears to wet inorganic pigments better even than castor oil. The observation made was that in spite of a higher viscosity (1,630 cps vs. 780 for castor oil), the viscosity of a 20% slurry of mica in Zenigloss was lower (3,600 cps) than that of the 20% mica slurry in castor oil (3,760). Dispersion viscosity is a test used in the paint industry as a measure of wetting efficiency. The lower the suspension viscosity provided the compared vehicles have similar viscosities, the better the wetting. Zenigloss is an excellent vehicle for pigment dispersion in lipsticks

Zenigloss functions to aid adhesion and plasticize the waxes and the polyurethane polymer to form a strong pliable film, resistant to water (not waterproof), flaking, and smudging. 

 Zenigloss S is unusual because it is a glossy, yet creamy solid. Solid triglycerides are generally crystalline and dull in appearance, hydrogenated oils are only glossy when near their melt points, and other soft waxes are dull. Added to a lipstick, lip gloss, or lip balm, Zenigloss S gives gloss without negatively impacting wear as do oily materials.

 

•         Molecular weight increases!

•         % of free hydroxyl groups is reduced.

•         The molecule becomes less polar.

•         As the polarity changes, the polyester becomes insoluble in the castor oil!

•         This ability to alter polarity and solubility is key to functionality, including derivatives.